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Ernesto Naranjo Madrid Spring 2022

Ernesto Naranjo Madrid Spring 2022 thumbnail

Ernesto Naranjo usually likes to pay tribute to a female artist with his collections, but this time around he chose an arts patron. “Peggy Guggenheim was this sophisticated aristocrat and had this eye for art—she discovered Jackson Pollock among others—but at the same time she loved to party and enjoy the night,” said Naranjo. “She knew how to have fun.”

Naranjo has been experimenting with volume and shapes since his beginnings; for this collection he felt that volume made more sense if it was transformed “into a more fluid version,” as he put it. “Ms. Guggenheim threw her most memorable parties in Venice, and with that in mind, I felt as if my volumes needed to be tamed and turned into something flowier,” he said. “It just felt like it would be a better fit to the ambience, so I went for more deconstructed volumes.”

The excess and joyfulness of those parties were also present in the color palette—more saturated than usual for Naranjo—and psychedelic prints. “The arsenic green and acid lime are not usual choices for me,” he said. “I tend to go for calmer options, but I wanted to transmit the extra factor that those parties, and even Peggy, had. She loved to wear neon bright colors and play with them, so that is what I went for.”

There were also references to Naranjo’s Andalusian roots in the form of madroños (tiny pom-pom rows associated with traditional Spanish costumes). Fabrics were stretchy, which worked for the deconstructed volume he was going for, and also made sense considering his main clients are women in their 50s or older who, he noted, seek functionality along with aesthetics. “It is important to focus on the creative idea but also remember your customers’ needs,” said Naranjo. “For me, that is the main goal.”

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