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RTA Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear

RTA Spring 2022 Ready-to-Wear thumbnail

Seeking inspiration for his spring 2022 collection, Eli Azran looked to the ideal of the editrix. “When you start working in fashion, you have this preconceived notion of what editors are like. They’re always in motion, with sunglasses and the jacket over the shoulder,” Azran says over Zoom from an outdoor café overlooking the cliffs of Marseille. Later he adds, “There’s nothing cooler than a girl in a suit.”

Indeed, the models in the lookbook are styled with sunglasses permanently planted over their eyes. Their poses suggest an innate insouciance, one that only comes when you know deep in your bones you are being looked at and admired. The clothes may read more “party girl” than “editor” at times, but you can definitely see the influences of Emmanuelle Alt and Carine Roitfeld in the collection.

The color palette is limited to white, black, and fuchsia, with shades of gray in a few pieces. Menswear has clearly informed the designs. The pants are generally loose fitting, either wide leg or boyishly baggy. Look 4, a black dress, was styled after one of Azran’s long-sleeved tees. In the RtA studio, they pinned the shirt around the fit model’s body to turn it into a constructed-but-not-too-much mini.

Leather, always key for RtA, features heavily, notably in an all-vegan-leather ensemble comprising an off the shoulder top and wide leg trousers. It definitely suggests a cool party girl, and is nicely constructed. So much so that it makes another all-leather look, a pink mini dress with zippers down the side, look a bit haphazard in comparison. But when the hot pink works, it really works, as is the case with a double-lapel blazer in look 21 and the trouser and off-the-shoulder top set in look 2. Overall, only one phrase comes to mind to describe the collection: boss lady.

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